est 2004 written and published by Kelli Ali

Monday, March 07, 2005

San Ignacio - Sweet Oasis

Lou dropped us off at the dirt road which turns off the highway and into
the sleepy little Oasis town of San Ignacio.

We walked the 3km walk into the town, glad to be walking again and looking
forward to eating the delicious tacos from the taco man who has a stand in
the small town square.



The road into town is lined by tall date palms and the surrounding lagoon
makes night time walking an eerie and exotic experience, the voices of all
the nocturnal creatures that inhabit the area creating an alien chorus to
welcome the two tired travellers.

We came face to face with a rather big, grumpy bull which gruffly ran
across the road and threatened to charge. We kept walking and I nervously
wondered what we would do if the big guy decided to take us on. Metso said
we should stand our ground so I quickened my pace somewhat!

We arrived at the very pleasant El Padrino camp ground which is just on the
outskirt of town, where we pitched our tent for the night, before heading
into the town square for our late night tacos from our trusty taco man,
which were, as always, delicious.



The town square of San Ignacio is the heart of the town. A lovely white
church stands at it's edge and watches over the activity. Children play and
neighbours meet here, the caballeros (herds men) eat tacos and all is well
in this really good little town.

The next day, we were greeted by the two piglets that live on the grounds,
very cute!We met a nice couple, Sue and Royson who were travelling in their
very sharp motorhome and a musician called Katrina, who was just leaving,
she had been travelling all over the states, busking with her guitar but we
didn't get chance to hear her stories maybe some other time.

After grabbing some huevos rancheros (Mexicna breakfast with eggs and
tortillas) in town, we went in search of our friend Sylvia, the lovely lady
who let us stay in her vacant house on our last visit to San Ignacio, over
a year ago.



She and her husband were gathering papayas and cleaning the grounds of
their old tyre/car workshop, which is now for sale. When she saw us, Sylvia
dropped her broom and came running over, very pleased and surprised to see
us.

She took us back to her house and we ate nachos and chatted with her
daughter Grethel for most of the afternoon. Sylvia doesn't speak English,
so our conversations are mostly made with hand signs and smiles.

After a lovely afternoon with Sylvia and her daughter, we were invited back
for breakfast the next day, we gratefully accepted and headed back to the
campground.

We built a fire and Sue and Royson, the couple we had met earlier, came
over and asked if we felt like having fish for dinner. We did! They had
brought them fresh from Bahia de Los Angeles, the day before and were
cooking them with garlic and squash and all kinds of tasty stuff.

Our dinner was lovely and later, Sue and Royson came to sit by the fire and
share some stories and listen to some songs. I played Wings in Motion and
Hot Lips. It is a real pleasure to play for people we meet along the way,
especially by the flames of an open fire with new friends.



Sue and Royson told us stories about their travels and we told them some of
ours, we had a lovely evening and were mighty grateful for the delicious
fish they had so kindly shared with us.

Breakfast at Sylvia's house, the next day was very nice. She and her
daughter, Grethel, made us waffles with eggs and bacon and syrup mmmmmmmmm,
thanks Sylvia!

After finishing breakfast and bidding fairwell to Sylvia and Grethel, we
walked 3km to the Pemex gas station to catch our next ride to the town of
Mulege.